Q&A: Karan Gokani on his love of chillies, the joys of coconut milk and the wonders of London’s dining scene.
)
Q&A with Karan Gokani:
Q: How did you get started?
I grew up in Mumbai and moved to the UK in 2005 to study law at Cambridge. While I pursued a legal career, food was always my real passion — I spent my spare time working in professional kitchens and travelling to explore different culinary traditions. In 2012, I took the leap and left my job as a solicitor to travel across India and Sri Lanka, immersing myself in the food and culture. That journey led to the launch of Hoppers in 2015, where I wanted to bring the bold, vibrant flavours of Sri Lankan and South Indian cuisine to London in a new, contemporary way that hadn’t been done before.
Q: What noteworthy or unusual ingredients are ever-present in your kitchen?
I always have asafoetida, curry leaves, tinned coconut milk and fresh Indian green chillies (aka finger chillies or rocket chillies) in my kitchen. Asafoetida adds a lovely background flavour to dishes and is frequently used in Indian cooking, especially vegetarian dishes. It’s made from a plant resin and smells and tastes similar to garlic powder. Curry leaves must always be fresh or frozen, never dried! These are non-negotiables in a lot of South Indian and Sri Lankan dishes. I love coconut milk in Sri Lankan, Indian and Thai curries. It’s also great in puddings and milkshakes. Thai brands, like Chaokoh, are my favourite. Indian green chillies are now more easily available at large supermarkets in the UK. These have a distinct taste and are milder than the hot Thai bird’s eye variety (which I also love). I add these while cooking and garnishing dishes but also eat them by themselves alongside my meal!
Q: What makes London a good place for dining out?
London is one of the most exciting food cities in the world. The diversity here is unmatched — both in terms of cuisine and price point — you can find everything from family-run hole-in-the-wall spots to fancy fine-dining establishments, all representing cuisines from every corner of the globe. I love exploring the regional/local restaurants around London’s neighbourhoods in search of truly authentic food. Whether it’s a vada pav in Wembley or a Bagel in Golders Green, it’s like going on holiday without leaving London!
Q: What are you looking forward to at the National Geographic Traveller (UK) Food Festival?
I’m really excited to share the flavours of South Asia with a new audience and highlight the depth of its cuisines beyond just the well-known dishes. We have a plethora of simple, delicious and varied food from each region — be it the different states of India, the north and south of Sri Lanka, and other countries in the region. Food is about storytelling and this festival is a great opportunity to connect with people who are just as passionate about travel and food. I’ll be talking about my childhood in India, my move to London, my travels to Sri Lanka, the inspirations behind Hoppers and, of course, cooking up some dishes that bring those stories to life!
Don’t miss Karan Gokani and more top chefs at the National Geographic Traveller (UK) Food Festival at London’s Business Design Centre on Sunday 20 July.
